Collectors have taken notice of Hermès’ timepieces lineups, from its tourbillons to ultra-slim automatic movements and limited-edition artist series. Nowadays, the house of Hermès makes the watches everyone desires—but the luxury brand started laying the groundwork for this moment over a century ago.
Hermès has been producing timepieces since 1912. The head of the family, Emile Hermès, created the first Hermès watch for his daughter Jacqueline when he attached leather straps to a pocket watch so she could wear it around her wrist. The horological connection of the brand expanded through the decades as the Paris flagship at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré began selling top watch brands like Rolex, alongside Hermès’ own timepieces equipped with Swiss-made movements, in the 1920s. It instantly became the hub for Swiss watches in the city.
The house brand committed to the world of serious watchmaking by establishing a Swiss subsidiary in 1978 and over the years, it has cemented its name in the horological industry and continues to be one of the faces of luxury in this watchmaking world.
- Hermès Carrè H
This Hermes watch was first unveiled in 2010. In 2018, the brand released a revamped version of modernist design-oriented Hermès Carrè H. This model has a square case hence its name Carrè H which is French for square. It has been nicknamed the architect’s watch for its geometrical shape and right angles. The new version has an enlarged frame making this bigger compared to the original design. Its case has edges polished, and micro-bead-blasted 316L stainless steel, as opposed to the titanium of the case of the original.
The dial — dark gray or black — offers even more aesthetic complexity to the new design with an opaline center improved with right-angled guilloché, an outer rim with either an opaline or sunburst finish and a finely grained chapter ring. It has unique, faceted, double-digit Arabic numerals in font coated with Super-Luminova, and rhodium-plated hour and minute hands.
Inside its case is a self-winding Caliber H1912, developed by Hermès itself, replacing the outsourced Girard-Perregaux GP3200 used in the former model. It is built with 193 components, including 28 jewels, and contains a 50-hour power reserve. The main plate has the signature Hermès H ingrained and comes with Barenia calfskin straps with a pin buckle.
- Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune
What caught the admiring eye of watch connoisseurs is the launch of Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune in 2015. Squelette Lune is the latest part of the Maison. It comes with an enhanced skeletonized display along with a double moon phase, making it the second high-end skeletonized timepiece of Hermès.
The 39.5 mm case of the design hosts an attractive and luxurious juxtaposition of bead-blasted grade 5 titanium for the middle case, 18k white gold for the crown and pusher, and 950 platinum for the bezel. Behind an anti-glare sapphire crystal, framed within the case, is the skeletonized dial. It has an array of alternating matte and gloss-polished finished and thin baton hands.
Equipped with Hermès Caliber H1953, Squelette Lune has a notable functional flourish. Bordered by a black-gold sunburst flange and gray minute track, the double moon phase is displayed in the rounded opening at 6 o’clock. The trademark symbol of Hermès is evident among the visible details of the self-winding movement, whose backside is also on display behind a sapphire case back. Its strap, of course, is an Hermès leather that fastens with a grade 3 pin buckle.
- Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel
The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel is guaranteed an eye-catcher. Its dial has a broad and harmoniously balanced appearance with a four-year display that indicates months and leap years, subdials for a dual-time function, and a moon phase indicator. Other new components in this model are the numerals written in a distinctive, elegant font specifically designed by Phillipe Apeloig that melts seamlessly into the surrounding precious rose gold and platinum case.
Equipped with the remarkable, ultra-thin Manufacture H1950, Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel comes with a perpetual calendar function. The caliber measures about 4 mm in thickness, regardless of its host of uses, and it utilizes a micro-rotor for its automatic winding system with a 42-hour power reserve. One element that will always be present in Hermès timepieces is the hallmark H. This element is engraved along with its Haute Horlogerie decorations, including hand-chamfered bridges.
The sleek round case of Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has a pusher for easy adjustment of the calendar functions in addition to the crown. These lugs connect the 39.5 mm case to a matte graphite-colored alligator strap, which secures the wrist with a pin buckle.
Hermès is a prominent name in the fashion industry, and it is no doubt that it also established a name in the watchmaking industry. It pays attention to intricate details, has an eye for exquisite designs, and emphasizes impeccable craftsmanship to produce timepieces worthy of the brand’s legacy. So it is no surprise that collectors consider Hermès as one of the most sought-after by watch enthusiasts.